I left Hiroshima yesterday early in the morning by shinkansen (bullet train). A lot of my experiences in Hiroshima made me think about how huge of an effect the bomb has had on the people of this city- everything from the baseball game we went to to the newspaper had a focus on a movement towards peace in these last few days. Here's a snippet of one of the many pages of the newspaper "mainichi shimbun" which has a picture of a hibakusha and a couple foreigners praying at the moment of silence (8:15 am, exactly 65 years after the bombing):

I'm going to try and summarize the most impactful events of the past couple days, so sorry if this blog post is a bit long! (It's getting pretty close to the end of this Hiroshima Nagasaki trip!). I'm going to divide the next bit into 4 sections. First i'll talk about how incredible different Nagasaki is from Hiroshima, then I'll talk about a seminar with a hibakusha physicist whose work is in blatant disagreement with the RERF, then my experiences at the Oka Masaharu museum for Japanese war atrocities in Asia and finally about the Atomic bombs effecting the time of the end of the war (or not?) . Even though it might seem long, I REALLY think a lot of these things are important so PLEASE read and understand as much as you can =) !
1) From the back of a brocure I found at the Tourism Section of Nagasaki City Hall: "Opened by the Portuguese in 1571, Nagasaki flourished as a busy trading port and center for Christian missionary activities. In 1641, after the adoption of a national ban on Christianity and the expulsion of the Portugese, the Dutch trading post and Chinese settlement in Nagasaki became Japan's only points of contact with the outside world. This monopoly lasted for more than 200 years and created in Nagasaki a unique blend of cultures and a liberal atmosphere unheard of in other parts of the country. The atomib comb catastrophe turned a dark page in Nagasaki's turbulent history, but the city is now a center of peace blessed with the beauty of nature and numerous places of historical and cultural interest which still exude therich flavor of old Nagasaki"
The rich culture and testimony of Christians in Nagasaki is something probably most people from outside of Japan haven't heard too much about. As I mentioned in a comment earlier, while Hiroshima has preserved the a-bomb dome as it was after the explosion, there is no entire bulding preserved the same way in Nagasaki. There was a movement by the government for the Urakami Cathedral to be preserved in a similar way, however, this was mysteriously stopped (and Nagasaki given a generous amount of money from the US for an alternate exhibit) for reasons the other canadian student is investigating as part of her thesis this trip. Even though wikipedia suggests that this preservation of the cathedral exactly where it was (as a few destroyed walls) didn't happen on the request of the church, my canadian friend is thinking that perhaps this Cathedral, being the largest Catholic church in east asia at the time of its construction, was unpreferable to the US as a symbol of the power of nuclear weapons (as the US did in less than a minute what the Japanese Imperial government couldn't do in 200 years in regards to wiping this religious history off the map)
The general impression of our group is that the Nagasaki museum is preferable to the Hiroshima museum both in terms of academic insight and in emotional involvement. I personally felt that from a physics point of view, the description of the bomb was quite comprehensive and there are many moving images and statistics that clearly demonstrate the power of nuclear weapons as well as Hiroshima, if not better. Yet Nagasaki remains largely shadowed by Hiroshima, perhaps because it was the second bombing, but also maybe because censorship by the US to the events of Nagasaki was even more intense than that at Hiroshima. Below is the monument at the bomb hypocentre and in the background is a pillar from the Urakami Cathedral relocated to here.

2) I went to an open house a few days back in Hiroshima of the RERF (Radiation Effects Research foundation) which has a controverisal history as it used to be the ABCC (Atomic Bomb Casualty Commision) which conducted tests on the hibakusha after the bomb. This organization is now jointly run by the US and Japanese governments and continues to analyze the hibakusha.
Today, we heard from a physicist named Shoji Sawada, who was sleeping in his bed at the age of 13 when the hiroshima bomb destroyed his house. He barely managed to escape the rubble as he turned to see his mother who was trapped beyond his ability to help. As flamed came closer to the building his mother said "you should survive, you should become a good person by studying well" and he escaped crying "forgive me, mother!".
65 years later, Shoji continues to do just that, publishing his work on the cover-up of damages by atomic bombing and severe effects of internal exposure by residual radiation. The RERF suggested that the effects of residual radiation was quite low to almost nothing. When an atomic bomb goes off, there is the Blast (50% of energy), the Heat rays (35% of energy), and the Radiation (15% of energy in the form of neutrons and gamma rays]. I don't want to get too much into the physics of it (actually I do, but you probably don't) BUT essentially Shoji said that the effect of the radiation messing up stuff which moves and does bad things in the area is hugely underestimated, as shown by things like the frequency of abnormal birthrates falling proportionately from distance away from Bikini Atoll atomic testing site. Basically, people in many places are using information from the RERF and are UNDERESTIMATING the effects of radiation on the body, which is hugely important for people ranging from nuclear power plant workers to atomic bomb testers.
I asked the RERF people one question (and got an unsatisfactory reply) which I also asked Shoji in regards to the difference between the intensity of radiation exposure between Hiroshima and Nagasaki. The hills in Nagasaki (look at the video at the end of this post) mean that less people died as a result of the initail explosion but the intensity of the radiation in Nagasaki was about 1.4 times more than in Hiroshima because of the construction of the bomb and use of plutonium instead of uranium. Peter (one of the American university profs) said that this made sense to him considering that the deaths from the atomic bomb in hiroshima rose from 140 000 to 200 000 over 5 years while the deaths in Nagasaki rose from 70 000 to 140 000. He asked the speaker if it could be possible that there is some correlation with the intensity of radiation emmitted by the bomb and he said most certainly, considering the residual radiation in the fallout from the Nagasaki bomb was much more.

3) Another moving thing for me was going to the Oka Masaharu Museum whose purpose is to "reveal the aggression by japanese army and irresponsible attitude of our govenrnment, also to demand its honest apologies and proper compensation to victims". This museum is not very big, not very air conditioned, and not quite as english friendly but it is VERY important to understanding the greater picture of WWII. There were displays on horrors such as the forced workers from other colonies of Japan, "comfort women" and attacks like the Nanking massacre. Many forced workers died from food loss and disease (but then again, a huge amount of Japanese casualties were because of the same things. After WWII 54,000 Japanese in China died from the same things- the image of people who die in war is usually from enemy attacks but I think starvation and disease are hugely underrepresented)
Tonight I was talking with a Ristumeikan student looking from Inasayama Hill (see video at end) and thinking about this museum. She expressed her concern over the lack of comprehensiveness in the Japanese school system in regards to the depiction of these events (only a very small space was spent talking about the experiences of these victims and she learned many new things for the first time today). Comparing this conversation to another one I had with one of the Chinese members of our tour, I'm becoming more and more convinced bias is everywhere. She expressed her experience where the Japanese are portrayed as a terrible people that students are made to hate in the educational system today. Upon coming to Japan and meeting Japanese people, her thoughts have changed and she told me about her experience here. (Perhaps there is some similarity between the differences in this story told by Japanese/Chinese schools and the story of the bombings told by American/Japanese schools)
[don't worry we're almost there!]
4) Perhaps some of you were surprized when I said that I thought that the dropping of the bombs didn't really have much to do with the time of the ending of the war -- I want to let you guys know that I take it back.
I'm now starting to think that perhaps the development of nuclear weapons by the US and decision to use such weapons on Japan actually made the war last longer, increasing casualties on both sides. In 1945, Japan was looking for surrender (as intercepted by American decoders) yet remained fixed over the issue of the surrender terms and keeping of the Emporor. It was always in the best interest of the US to keep the japanese emporor (or else they would have ended up with something like Iraq) but this idea was not expressed as the US demanded an unconditional surrender until after the second bombing. Perhaps the US was waiting until the dropping of the bombs.
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Before coming to Hiroshima and Nagasaki, I guess I was under the impression that coming here would help me experience what the hibakusha went through. Maybe going to the places that the bomb was dropped and talking with survivors would enable me to paint a picture for what it must have been like.
As I listen to hibakusha talk about there experiences (one speaker yesterday lost her entire family and yet continued to go through her incredibly diffucult life while struggling as nagasaki rebuilt itself to live despite the adverse effects of the radiation) I realize that I really can't imagine it. This person pictured below after being badly burned received no care for a month then was hospitalized for 3 years - the first 21 months of which were spent not moving on his front. They continue to cause him great discomfort to this day, even though he has had 23 operations.

Somehow I can't really describe what it was like to hear first hand this guy talk about his life. I don't know what will happen after the hibakusha (all of whom are at least 65) pass away but I do know that it's important to hear them now. Anyways I kindof feel like I'm not doing it justice but... tomorrow is an early start, its around 1, and this whole week I've had between 3 and 6 hours of sleep so I think I'll end it here!
[movies of Nagasaki peace museum and Inasayama hill]
oh yes and the prize winner for today is Steven G from Vancouver (you have been contacted!)
This will likely be the last *Big* post for my trip.. I don't feel like I need a question today, please comment in whatever way you want .. also link for NHK world - the archive with a part including our trip will be online sometime .. also we're in a newspaper